Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
